Taxi drivers call it the last stop in Havana.
The locals call the neighborhood El barrio de Jesus María.
Up the steep concrete steps, a multi-generational family of seven shares a pastel blue apartment and the basic rations common in Cuba — including a sparse and potentially unclean water supply that sloshes around in a dark, old cistern just inside the doorway.
Cuba seems like a water-rich country, with abundant rainfall, rivers crisscrossing the island and groundwater that bubbles up in turquoise springs. …